׉?4ׁB!בCט  (u׉׉	 7cassandra://0GlWj5ZNpwoCx_RqxBURv6I9o4A8CnjrD1X5R3K-Onk `׉	 7cassandra://rLzrNZPlFaMbzv-rtWcNghD9OxNEs-5Vc36ElFA8XPo͆`s׉	 7cassandra://Yy0fjVTA6bHCN8Roy-qH7fPqbKWUfGIpK9uk9Ibt0fU*` ׉	 7cassandra://m24HsSDMwYWxk4dh_kz4Rib-PcgSv27eShWHAssZ6ns !4͠]d3Fז0?G2ט   (u׈   `n  נd3Fז0?G2 f	9ׁHhttp://montananewspapers.orgׁׁЈ׈Ed2Fז0?G2l׉E&JULY 2023
Ghost Towns and History of
Montana Newsletter
From The Big Timber Pioneer July 19, 1917
TOUGHEST TOWN IN THE WORLD
Accessed via: montananewspapers.org
Among the "ghost" towns of
the Treasure state, in whose
balmy days flourished the
romance of hard and fast
living there is probably none
which will live longer in the
memories of the pioneers of
northern Montana than
McCarthyville, which is acclaimed
by Montanans who
sojourned there, to have
been "the toughest town in the world."
McCarthyville was a city for a period of only 18 months. For the most part a
railway construction camp at the time when the Great Northern Railway
company was building its line into the mountains of Northern Montana, its
population, always Arabic in disposition, wandered away, following the rails
that Jim Hill was then laying toward Puget Sound.
The garish, false-fronted frame dance halls, saloons and stores were
wrecked for the lumber and the sturdier log buildings succumbed to the elements.
Today, this "wild and woolly" camp is represented only by a quartet
of untenable cabins squatted on the little prairie far below the Great Northern
grade.
The town was started by Eugene McCarthy and a partner whose name was
Will Hardy. Mr. McCarthy is one of the pioneer characters of Kalispell. In an
interview given by him a few years ago, McCarthy told, in brief, the story of
the establishment of the town. In the course of his story, he said:
“We really started the town in September platting it into lots and filing the
Photo Courtesy of Northwest Montana Historical Society
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
plat in the courthouse at Missoula. The contractors put in their headquarters and in a few days we had
a city started.
At that time there was a state law providing that liquor could not be sold within two miles of a construction
camp except within an incorporated city. So we incorporated. A little while later the county
attorney arrested the whole town—that is all the saloon keepers—but the case fell through because
the town was incorporated. I was elected mayor and I believe I was the youngest mayor in existence. I
was just over 20 years old. Now I guess I’m the oldest mayor in the country, in point of service, because
my successors never qualified and according to law, I'm still the King. Before winter came McCarthyville
was a complete city. We had a city government, although I don't believe there was a single ordinance
on the books, a post office, sidewalks, Red McConnell's dance hall, three hotels, a dozen short order
houses, three stores besides the company's commissary; in fact everything to supply the necessaries
and luxuries of life as it was lived thereabouts. That town in its balmy days was a real, live settlement. It
was a place for rough men and there was nobody else there. From Cut Bank west, there was no other
town and we were the metropolis of miles of country full of working men. All the supplies for the
camps went out from McCarthyville and all the men from the camps came in for their pay. Winter and
summer the construction on the big grade from the summit down was pushed and the camps held
from three thousand to four thousand men. That made an enormous payroll for one town. Any man
could get a check any time for what was due him, so there was always big money circulating in the
town. McCarthyville also had the company hospital and in the winter of ninety and ninety-one that was
the busiest place in the young city. Laborers were scarce in the west, so the company brought them out
from the east, most of them picked up in cities. They would come by train to Cut Bank and from there
on, would have 60 miles of hiking across the prairies and over the summit.”
DIED LIKE FLIES
"It was about as tough a jaunt as any man would want and it was a whole lot more than most of these
city-bred fellows could stand. They weren't used to the altitude and hardly any of them had enough
clothes. They would start out from Cut Bank, in the dead of winter, and usually they'd get caught in a
blizzard out on the flat. Then a couple of days later they'd wobble into McCarthyville and drop into a
bunk with pneumonia. Well, there wasn't many of 'em lived through. Buryin's got too frequent and we
begun to take notice. Not that they bothered us much in the way of attending services, because we didn't
have no time for funerals and anyway, there was no minister in town. I think that was about the only
institution we ever lacked, though. It got so that every morning just at daylight a big Swede that was
acting as nurse would haul out a big sled on which there was loaded a body wrapped in a blanket. Then
he'd start off up the creek to perform the obsequies by digging a hole in the snow and rolling the
corpse off the sled. After this had been going on for some time, my partner. Will Hardy, said to me, ‘I’m
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
goin' to kill that Swede; he's gettin' on my nerves with his everlastin' funerals at daylight.' 'No,' I said, 'we
don't want to get the Swede—the doctor's our man.'”
DOCTOR QUITS HIS JOB
"This doctor had come from Great Falls, where we understood, he had built up a fine reputation as a veterinarian.
He had a contract with the construction company to look after the sick and injured men for a
dollar per man per month. But these men who had just come in weren't on the payroll yet, so we figured
it out the doctor wasn't doing much to bring them back to the full vigor of youth. Hardy agreed with me
that the doctor probably was to blame for all these sudden demises, so we organized a committee of
prominent citizens to go to the hospital that night. The hospital was right in town and at that time was
one of the poorest buildings there. It was a low, log cabin, no floor, and the only window was a hole covered
with a canvas flap.”
DROPS “SWEDE” WITH A PISTOL
"We went over in a body and I knocked at the door. The Swede opened it part way and then when he saw
who it was he tried to shut it but Hardy reached over my shoulder and tapped him with the butt of a gun.
He dropped like a beef. Then we cast a glance about for the doc, just in time to see his heels following him
through the window. The canvas dropped and that was "curtains" for him. McCarthyville never saw him
again. Then we had another doctor and the death rate was much decreased.” -Excerpt from The Bozeman
Courier, April 23, 1926, Accessed via: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/
Dedicating the Going-to-the-Sun Road
Glenn Montgomery cooked for several of the crews that built Going-to-theSun
Road and was head cook for West Glacier Park. But never in his career
did he feed more people than on July 15, 1933, the day Going-to-the-Sun
Road was dedicated. Park officials expected to serve lunch to twenty-five
hundred people before the opening ceremony. The day before, Montgomery
gathered his groceries, including 500 pounds of red beans, 125 pounds
of hamburger, 36 gallons of tomatoes, 100 pounds of onions, and 15 pounds
of chili powder. The brew bubbled on four woodstoves in nine copperbottomed
washtubs until midnight. Crews transported the first batch of hot
chili up to Logan Pass and transferred it to waiting cook fires to keep it hot.
Meanwhile back at headquarters, Montgomery prepared a second batch
that cooked the rest of the night. Nineteen-year-old Ernest Johnson, who
worked on the road’s construction at forty cents an hour, stayed up all night helping to stir the chili.
At the dedication of Going-to-the Sun Road
Montana Historical Society Photograph Archives, 956-617
The morning dawned sunny and clear, drawing four thousand people to the festivities on Logan Pass. The chili stretched thin,
but with additional hot dogs and coffee, everyone got something to eat. Johnson later said that he slept through the event, but
helped clean up the mess. He never saw so many paper plates in all his life. –Ellen Baumler
From Montana Moments: History on the Go
Ellen Baumler is an award-winning author and Montana historian. A master at linking history with modern-day supernatural events, Ellen's
true stories have delighted audiences across the state. She lives in Helena in a century-old house with her husband, Mark, and its resident spirits.
To view and purchase Ellen’s books, visit: http://ellenbaumler.blogspot.com/p/my-books.html
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Lemhi Pass, at 7,373 ft. above sea level, is a narrow
gap in the formidable mountains of the Bitterroot Range,
the backbone of North America- the Continental Divide. It
has always served as a passageway for people moving
through the mountains in this region.
Many stories unfold at Lemhi Pass. Here, on August 12,
1805, Meriwether Lewis, George Drouillard, Hugh McNeal,
and John Shields
reached the most distant fountain of the mighty Missouri, accomplishing
a key mission of the Corps of Discovery, to explore the
Missouri River to its headwaters. From the Continental Divide,
they beheld immense ranges of high mountains still to the west, a
view that foretold a difficult journey ahead. Pressing on to the
west, they first tasted waters flowing to the Columbia River.
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Five more times, members of the expedition and the Shoshone Indians that came to their aid crossed
Lemhi Pass- the last time on August 26, 1805. Lewis collected a plant at the head spring of the Missouri
that was new to scientists of the day- Mimulus lewisii, Lewis' red monkey-flower. Just west of the pass,
a baby was born to a Shoshone woman who was helping pack the expedition's gear. Other stories of
Lemhi Pass include Indian battles, trappers, gold rush stagecoaches, and the Civilian Conservation
Corps.
In 1932 Sacajawea Memorial Area was established at Lemhi
Pass to honor the young Shoshone woman who played an
important role as interpreter, guide, and counselor to the
Lewis and Clark Expedition. In 1960 Lemhi Pass was designated
a National
Historic Landmark.
The landmark is a
high point on the
3,700 mile Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, which intersects
the Continental Divide
National Scenic
Trail at Lemhi Pass.
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
The scene of countless
brief episodes in people's lives- remembered, forgotten and yet to
come- Lemhi Pass is more than a passage through the mountains.
The National Historic Landmark affords a passageway through
time, where visitors can reflect on a broad scope of history in the
natural landscape of the Rocky Mountains.- Courtesy of USDA
Forest Service
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
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P a g e 5
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
The Parker Homestead– A Kingdom of Hope
Like the cottonwoods that shelter this cabin, the Parker
family who built it dug their roots deep, weathered many
seasons of hardship, and drank what sustenance they
could from the soil. The Parkers were among the thousands
of Americans who took advantage of the Homestead
Act of 1862 to stake their dreams on the arid Montana
plains. Like so many other families, they notched out
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
a living with sweat and optimism, and enjoyed little in the way of material comfort.
In the 1890’s, newlyweds Nelson and Rosa Ellen (Harwood) Parker refurbished a miner’s shack on nearby
Antelope Creek. A few years later they built a cabin for their growing family on the Jefferson River, but a
spring flood washed that home away. The Parkers escaped in a rowboat, Rosa clutching the youngest of
her three children between her knees. They vowed to move to dry ground.
In 1910, Nelson filed a patent to homestead 160 acres here. They built this sod-roofed cabin, and hauled
water from creeks and ditches for years before they could afford to dig a well. Eventually the Parkers built
a larger home near Three Forks, and abandoned this cabin.
In 1939, Orville and Josephine Jewett bought the place for their family of four children. The Jewetts
farmed, hunted, trapped, and sheared sheep through the Depression and World War II. When they lived
here, the cabin had three rooms, all painted with calcimine or white-wash. Bright linoleum covered wideplank
floors, curtains softened the windows, and the laughter of the Jewett’s four children rang across the
fields.
The Parker Homestead lies along the Jefferson River southwest of Three Forks. It was formerly a state park
but now lies on private property owned by a local family.
Garnet Mining District
In the usual version told of the discovery of the great placer mines of the Garnet Range, gold was discovered
in the area then known as Bear. The mouth of Bear Gulch is located about eleven miles west
of Drummond and the first discovery is credited to the Jack Reynolds party, in October of 1865 in Elk
Creek Gulch. Reynolds' discoveries led to a rush of miners into Bear Gulch (the upper part of which is
called First Chance gulch), Elk Creek Gulch, Deep Creek Gulch and Bilk Gulch. It is known because of
Leeson (1885) and the Morse Family descendants that Colonel George W. Morse and partners took
about $250,000 worth of Gold out of Bilk Gulch. But perhaps the role of John Lannan in these events
has been overlooked.
The Society of Montana Pioneers (1899) states that Edward Lannan, John's son was born in New
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
York in 1856 and traveled with his father and mother Bridget from Kansas across the plains via the
Lander cut-off. They arrived at Bearmouth in September of 1864, a full year before Reynolds. In Wolle's
version of events, John mined during the winter and in the spring traded his claim for a cow. Then
he brought his wife Bridget and son Edward to the area. He built a ferry that carried people and supplies
across the Hell Gate River (Clark Fork), from the Mullan Trail to the gold mines. This crossing site
became a major traveler's stop and eventually even included a hotel during Lannan's tenure at the
mouth of Bear. Besides raising sheep, a garden and operating the ferry, John ran gold to Deer Lodge
and returned with currency. He also operated a milk route. Known as Bearmouth, the stop became a
stage stop on the Mullan Road, then a railroad station for the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1883. It was
also the shipping point for all of the ore removed from the Garnet District during the mining booms.
John's wife Bridget was an immigrant from Ireland, born in 1829 and traveled the above route with
Edward and John to Bannack, then Helena and arrived at Bearmouth the same year as Edward. By August
1911 the Philipsburg Mail stated Chris Lannen (sic) (Edward's brother) had over forty thousand
sheep and averaged eleven and one quarter pounds of wool from each animal per shearing.
The US Federal Census of 1880 has John age 50 and Bridget age 54 living in Hells Gate Valley in the
county of Deer Lodge with the following family members: Peter age 21, Christopher age 13, John age
19, and Edward age 29 plus a person named Charles Harris age 30 and another male named Ah Unknown
age 46. Ah must have been a Chinese servant. There are no records available in the 1900 census
for either John or Bridget. At this time obituaries are unavailable.
In "Report on the construction of a military road from fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton" (1998) compiled
by John Mullan there is a member of his crew named Lannon. He has no first name and his trade is
listed as ? (pp.37a). Then in the "Itinerary for the Route" on page 39 is the statement: "Thirty first day -
-Move to Lannon's camp. nine miles. Road excellent. May have to double team at Beaver Tail Butte.
Wood, water and grass abundant." Mullan's work crew was in the area in 1861 and 1862. Lannon's is
shown on Mullan's map below not far east of "Close Creek" (now named Rock Creek) at Beavertail Hill.
׉	 7cassandra://YCTsLkUNwNPUyW4NuGkFFNB-S3D2YRNljIMAH0XhF9g&` d2Fז0?G2|׉E	P a g e 7
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
The above comments leads one to believe that John Lannan (Lannon) may have been with Mullan and
then went back to get his family and returned to Montana. It is documented that the Lannan family arrived
at Bannack then moved to Helena and Bridget and Edward spent the winter in Helena before moving
to the mouth of Bear. If John had set up a camp at the site while building the Mullan Road during the
winter of 1861-62 he certainly would have felt comfortable returning to the area to mine, earn a grubstake
and then settle down with his family. Hopefully more information will be discovered in the census
records about the family in 1860.
Mining Camps
The camp named Bear grew around mining claims in the narrow gulch above Bearmouth. Bed rock was
70 feet below the surface and the streak of placer gold was very narrow. Water was necessary for placer
mining and even when the miners made reservoirs and let water flow only limited hours a day, the
season for washing the diggings was very short.
Phil Newman’s Sawmill at Garnet
As more miners came into the
area they moved up the gulches
and Yreka, Silver City, and Reynolds
City were populated. There
are frequent references in the
early newspapers about Reynolds
City in 1865. Half of the
camp burned in a fire on July 18,
1867. The camp was named after
the discoverer of the first gold, Jack Reynolds'. The mining camp had a population of about 500 people
during the two years it was active. Another camp named Top O' Deep had a post office from 1893 to
1894 with Tillie Kreuzberger as post master.
When stamp mills became popular the mining had a resurgence and the
camps of Garnet and Coloma sprang up. Garnet's post office was established
in 1897 under the name of Mitchell and changed later that year to
Garnet. It served 100 addresses and about 1,000 miners.
Coloma is located about three miles over the ridge from Garnet and is now
located in Powell county. An in depth discussion of the camps and mines is
available at the Montana Department of Environmental Quality http://
www.deq.mt.gov/abandonedmines/linkdocs/62tech.mcpx . Garnet is now
Unknown residents walking the
Garnet main street 1902
on the National Register of Historic Places and managed by the BLM. Frank Davey and Sam Ritchie
(Ritchey) are the two most prominent pioneers in the area and detailed in depth in readily available
publications so will not be discussed in this blog.
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
MINES
Miner’s Union Hall
Major mines in the area were owned and operated by the doctors Peter
Mussigbrod and A.H. Mitchell plus Henry Grant, James Hartford,
Sam Ritchie and Michael McKevitt. All of these names and many more
are discussed on the above mentioned abandoned mines web site. One
of the most famous of these mines was the Nancy Hanks. The mines
were all operated by members of the Miners Union #16 that was established
in 1888. The Miner's Union Hall was completed at Garnet in 1889. There is no history of
any strikes in the area by the miners and non-union miners were not allowed to work in the area.
The literature abounds with figures in the multi-millions for the dollar amount of gold and silver
taken from the Garnet Mining District. Since these sources vary greatly in the amounts I will leave it
to the reader to decide the contributions made to Montana from this pioneer section of Granite
county. We are blessed to be able to drive to the ghost town of Garnet and walk amongst the preserved
buildings. One can even reserve a cabin and spend your vacation in the serene setting with
the spirits of the brave and hardy men who originally toiled in the area. –Courtesy of the Granite
County History Blog
The photos in this post are provided courtesy of LouAnn Fessler Sichveland and Myrna Fessler
Leipheimer.
The purpose of the Granite County History Blog (https://granitecountyhistory.blogspot.com/) is to share and seek information on the history
of Granite County, Montana. In a few cases our topics will lap over into adjacent counties as mining districts especially do not respect the later
boundaries imposed by politicians! It is a project of members of the Granite County Historical Society, an organization founded in 1978 by the
late Barry Engrav of Philipsburg and now comprised of 8 members dedicated to preserving and interpreting historical documents, artifacts,
and sites in the greater Philipsburg area. Our goal is to interest current residents, folks with family roots, and those with an academic interest
in the area to add their knowledge to this blog as an ongoing project to deepen and in some cases correct the narrative of the people and events
that shaped history in this part of Montana. The recent explosion of scanned historical documents onto the internet is making it possible to
greatly speed up historical research, refine historical chronology, and deepen historical interpretation. Perhaps we are entering into a "golden
age" of research into our past! Anyone with an interest in the Philipsburg area or Montana history is invited to discuss the topics of our posts,
as well as their own data and sources, which we hope will create an ongoing dialogue about the area now known as Granite County.
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