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Ghost Towns and History of
Montana Newsletter
From the Choteau Acantha, Dec. 25,
1924
Granite Walking Tour
Granite has been known as the "Silver Queen," "Silver Queen of the West,"
"City Without Nights," and "City
in the Sky." Whatever it is called,
it is still a town that attracts visitors
from all over the world and
is a very special place for all the
people living in Philipsburg.
As an aside to the history of
Granite, Philipsburg was named
for Philip Deidesheimer, the first
superintendent of the St. Louis Montana Gold and Silver Mining Company,
later known as the Philipsburg Mining Company. The settlement was first
called Camp Creek, for the stream that meandered through town and furnished
water for residents. Philipsburg was not incorporated until 1890, but
in 1887 it had a population of 1,500 and was the trade center for 8,000 people.
The oldest school building still in use in the state is the imposing brick
edifice constructed in 1895 to serve grades one through twelve.
At Granite, you are 8,000 feet above
sea level ‐ Philipsburg is 5,280 feet.
Granite is perched on a mountain
where only 3,000 people lived in
1890. Another 2,000 people probably
lived in the area nearby.
In 1878 a claim was located on GranPhoto
by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Accessed via: https://montananewspapers.org
ite Mountain and in 1881 tunneling was begun into the mountain itself.
Granite Mountain became the greatest silver bonanza in the world at that
time. Two mines, the Bi‐Metallic ‐ you can see the hoist on your right ‐ and
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
the Granite Mountain ‐ looking west ‐ provided the
ore. Mills were built in Granite and nearby Hasmark
and Rumsey where other discoveries were made.
The name "Granite" accurately describes both the
mountain and the town clinging to its peak. With
very few level spots, many houses were built against
the hill on one side and elevated stilts on the other
side. They were usually small, built of boards, covered
with tar paper and clapboard. The "topsoil" consisted mostly of decomposed granite and was so
thin that it was impossible to dig a grave on the mountain; bodies were transported down to the valley
floor in Philipsburg for burial. Wells could not be dug either. Each household was given four 5‐gallon
cans of water per day and an extra gallon on wash day.
On the right is the cabin where the stockholders were obligated to meet at least once a year. It was the
caretaker's cabin during the rest of the year.
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
As you walk up the road, try to imagine the Granite Mountain
Mining Company's General Office, the Granite Mountain
Mining Mill and the Ruby Shaft Hoist up the mountain
to the right. This is the same area where the main foot race
was a man killing dash up the steep, rocky face of Granite
Mountain to the top and back, a distance of about a mile
and a half each way. The prizes were $50, $25, and $15 for
the first three places. This was held on Miner's Union Day ‐
June 13th.
Looking to the right, there is a pile of weathered boards. That is what remains of the Hospital building.
It was a two‐story building where five doctors practiced in
Granite. In 1884, when black diphtheria struck hard, at
least 35 children and a large but unknown number of
adults died.
Moving up the hill and to your right and on the corner is
where the Catholic Church stood. Behind that church was
the Methodist. The Episcopal Church was up the hill from
the Methodist and the Presbyterian Church was up from
Magnolia Lane on the corner. The pews from the Episcopal
church in Granite are still being used in the Episcopal
church in Philipsburg.
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Across the street from the Catholic Church and on the corner was the Metropolitan Hotel. At the top of
the road where it evens out was the Ruby Hotel.
As you get to the top of the road and where the Ruby Hotel stood, try to imagine a jewelry store, a general
store, the Cleary Hotel, Moore House, saloons, lodging houses, gambling and lunch rooms, stores for
fruits and cigars and the vault of the Hyde Freychlag Bank. On the right are buildings that had to be built
on posts. These buildings were built by several Chinese businessmen and some of the buildings were the
"red light district" places.
Moving toward the Miners' Union Hall, the Moore Hotel stood. It was the first three‐storied structure
built on the mountain, and quickly developed into one of the Territory's finest hotels. Townspeople and
travelers alike marveled at the first two floors furnished with hand‐carved black walnut with tables covered
in Tennessee marble.
The Miners' Union Hall was dedicated on a New Year's Eve in 1890 ‐ a building of three stories and native
stone structure ‐ at a cost of $22,000. The façade was simple, but elegant with generously proportioned
windows dominated the side facing the street. In the space
above the first floor doors and main windows, transoms glistened
with multicolored glass panes, and the morning light
filtered through creating pastel checkerboards on the tops of
the three emerald pool tables with their net pockets. A metal
plate on the threshold of the main entrance read "Butte Iron
Works." Each section of the first floor's main windows that
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
faced the sidewalk were separated by an elegant cast iron pilaster from Butte. On each support's face, a
classical‐style lute was displayed in embossed relief. The rectangular windows on the second floor combined
with the third floor's arched windows to create a scalloped design of glass across the upper half of
the structure. The entire facade was capped off with a cast iron cornice, which rose to a small peak in the
center of the building, creating a base for a towering flagpole, from which an American flag billowed in
the mountain air.
The heart of the Union Hall was on the second floor. An office and small library sat on the front portion of
the building, but the more important part of the upstairs lay beyond a ticket booth that stood on the
landing. The combination dance floor and auditorium space was the real draw. A specially laid maple
floor, with the qualities of a spring board, stretched nearly the entire length of the structure, benches
lined the walls. The orange flow from oil‐fueled chandeliers illuminated waltzing couples, who cast their
soft shadows on the Northwest's finest dance floor.
The company began leasing buildings lots for $2.50 and log cabins, frame houses, and business buildings
soon spilled down both sides of the ridge. The first business house constructed was the Moore House.
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
In 1892, Granite had no fewer than 17 saloons, numerous restaurants, a weekly newspaper (The Granite
Mountain Star), a brewery and soda pop bottling facility, several hotels, a post office, two skating rinks (ice
and roller), four churches, a Knights of Labor Hall, a Masonic Lodge, and an Odd Fellows Lodge as well as
others.
The Granite Mountain Company had three mills, two in Granite and one in Rumsey, located three miles to
the south and supplied by ore carried on an 8,750 foot gravity feed Bleichart Aerial Tramway that generated
14 horsepower with a vertical drop of 1,297 feet. The Bi‐Met Company had one mill located at Clark
(also known as Bi‐Metallic), near Philipsburg, supplied by a 9,750 foot Bleichart Tramway, also generating
14 horsepower with a 1,225 foot vertical drop. The Bi‐Metallic Mine, which you passed when you first entered
Granite, is drained by an 8.850 foot tunnel intersecting the Bi‐Met at the 1,000 level and the Granite
Mountain Mine at the 1,450 foot level. The two mines produced upwards of $45,000,000 worth of silver
and gold with no less than $15,000,000 in dividends paid to the stockholders of the two companies between
1882 and 1903.
They always said, "Nothing ever closed, nothing ever stopped in Granite, Montana!"
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
2 0 1 1 MON T ANA COWB O Y HA L L O F F AME I N DU C T E E
1860 – 1 9 6 0 L E GA C Y AWA R D D I S T R I C T 1 2
The Brander Sisters -
Violet (1904-1981) &
Margaret (1905-1996)
“Life wasn't easy” best describes two of the
hardiest pioneer cowgirls in the State of
Montana. Violet Elizabeth and Margaret
Ruth Brander were born at Avon, Montana.
They became known as the famous
“Brander Sisters” throughout western rodeo circuits because of their daring rides on bucking horses
and Brahma steers and bulls. Violet also did Roman riding races. “Let ‘er Buck” was associated
with the sisters, though they were also contestants in bulldogging, calf roping, relay races, wild
cow milking, wild horse racing, and horse racing. The girls’ exhibition rides on Brahmas had Margaret
atop the animal’s neck backwards while Violet faced Margaret. Violet, or “Vi” as she was
known, was a slender 5’11” blue-eyed woman with reddish-blond hair born on January 24, 1904.
Margaret, nicknamed “Marg”, was a shapely 5’10” blue-eyed woman with dark brown hair born
April 28, 1905. The girls were the fourth and fifth children of George and Fannie Brander who had
fifteen children.
During the early years, the family suffered extreme privation and at times, hunger. Vi and Marg
had vivid memories of living off the land by eating wild service berries, wheat gleaned after neighbors
harvest, and small potatoes left after potato pickers had sacked those worth sacking from
nearby fields. Their father was a wood sawyer who didn't get paid often, as far as they knew and
once left his family in the wilderness near Gold Creek to fend for themselves while he looked for
more profitable work. In 1912, their mother through an agreement with their mother’s uncle,
moved the family to Bradley, Montana. Fannie, a farmer at heart managed to put together a herd
of dairy cattle, chickens, turkeys, and sheep. Her and the children put in an acre of garden and a
potato patch. Apples and cherries from the orchard were canned. With a large root cellar for storage
and hard work, there were no longer days of acute hunger. Vi and Marg worked hard caring
for the garden, plowing and seeding field crops, caring for stock and their younger siblings.
When they were 17 and 18, following a spat with their father, Vi and Marg decided to leave home
and make it on their own. They rode bareback about 70 miles as the crow flies to the ranch for Bill
and Fannie Steele who lived at Montana City. They had previously met Fannie Steele, the then
World Champion Woman Saddle Bronc Rider. The couple taught the young sisters how to ride
broncs. That summer the sisters also worked the Steele's fields, mowing, raking and stacking
hay. They later returned home and ran a cross-cut saw to fell big trees, then limbed and skidded
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
them to the freight cars. They picked apples in Washington and cooked for ranches. Work was
available and work they did.
Shortly after their high school graduations, the Brander Sisters were bit by the “rodeo bug” when
performing bronc rides at the Deer Lodge Rodeo. At a rodeo in Polson they met Paddy Ryan who
asked Vi to ride double on a steer with him. Vi agreed and reported, “It was easy!” Afterward, the
girls began riding Brahmas double. Their motto was “Anything a cowboy can do we can do better.”
Vi began roping and trick roping; Marg began bulldogging. They won the Wild Cow Milking over a
field of male entries. The Brander sisters competed in rodeos all over Montana as well as Lethbridge
and Yorktown, Canada; at Fruita and Grand Junction, Colorado; Price, Utah and finally at
the Second Annual World’s Rodeo in Chicago. While pursuing their colorful careers, Vi wrote several
articles for Western magazines. Her stories described the reality of rodeo as one of the most
dangerous, nerve wracking games there is, though those bit by the “rodeo bug” wouldn’t trade a
second of their arena life for anything.
During the Depression, Vi and Marg began plans for their dream ranch by leasing 640 acres four
miles east of Avon. They called their spread the Circle Star, the same name as their registered
brand. In 1931, they hosted their first Circle Star rodeo. An article in the Silver State Post, in Deer
Lodge, published in 1935 stated, “Attendance at the Brander Girls' Annual Circle Star Ranch Rodeo
on July 4 was greater than anticipated.” During the era of the Circle Star Rodeos, the younger
Brander sisters Alice, Kay, June, and Florence were an active part of the ranch. In 1933, Vi married
cowboy Oscar “Pal” Beebe, and in September 1937, she gave birth to Marlin Dale. Her second
son, Leland Wayne, was born in November 1938. When the lease expired in 1938, the Brander
Sisters were outbid for renewal of the lease. They lost everything they had put into the buildings
and arena. Bitter and discouraged over the loss of the ranch, the Brander Sisters went their separate
ways.
Marg went to work at the General Store in Avon, keeping records. In 1940, Vi and Pal divorced.
For a time, Vi and Marg reunited and lived in two old railroad section houses. Marg drove school
bus and Vi worked at various jobs until she packed her belongings and took her boys to Hanford,
Washington, where she ran a riding academy. When the academy folded, she returned to Montana
and worked at any odd job available, as Marg continued to do as well. They cooked at mines, in
cafés, and worked on ranches. In 1946, Vi married Vernon “Red” Gilman, a miner at Garrison, who
adopted her two sons and became the father they had never known. Vi brought to the marriage a
small herd of cattle and horses and the couple soon went to work on a ranch at Georgetown Lake.
In that same year, Marg met and married Steve Dorn. For a short time, they lived at the mine
where he worked, then always restless and both lovers of travel, the Dorn’s moved from place to
place enjoying a variety of jobs and life with each other. Marg retired in 1968 and Steve died in
1969. Marg continued to travel for the remainder of her life. Vi and Red bought two ranches near
Garrison and settled down to raising horses, cattle and their sons. In 1973 they retired from ranching.
Vi was crippled by arthritis and underwent surgery for a disintegrated disk, possibly the result
of her rodeo days. Her active life became a small circle including her sons, now six grandchildren,
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P a g e 7
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
and her always devoted Marg.
The Brander sisters were featured in an Otho Hartley photo exhibition. Hartley’s photos taken in the
1930s of rodeo contestants was entitled, “This contest is for real hands: An old-time Montana Rodeo.”
A special sub-grouping featured the Brander sisters riding bucking horses and bucking steers.
The exhibit traveled two years, 2002-03, with stops in Montana, Wyoming, and Texas, as well as the
USA National Tour. It was selected as one of ten featured exhibits at the Salt Lake City Olympic
Winter Games in 2002.
Vi passed away in 1981 and Marg in 1996. The Brander sisters are buried at the Hillcrest Cemetery
between Butte and Anaconda. –Courtesy of the Montana Cowboy Hall of Fame, montanacowboyfame.org
King’s Hill Guard Station
This site was first developed in about 1910. Ranger Walter
Donaldson from Four Mile noted that there was a lookout
cabin, horse corral and small barn at King’s Hill where four
ranger districts joined corners. These were likely the Belt
Creek, Sheep Creek, Tenderfoot, and Judith Districts. Facilities
records found at the National Archives indicate that
the early cabin was a 1-story log structure built in 1913.
The cabin presently on site is a modified C-4 design built
by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1937 and 1938 along
with the log garage. A porch has been added onto the back of the cabin along with an outhouse and a woodshed
of modern construction.
The first King’s Hill Guard Station, May, 1916
In recent years, recreation and historic preservation have become important aspects of the agency’s mission.
The cabin is eligible for listing in the National Register of Historic Places and is maintained and managed for
its historic and recreational value. It has been placed on the Forest Service cabin rental program for your enjoyment.
-Courtesy of https://www.fs.usda.gov/
Please help us maintain the past for the future. If you would like more information, please contact the White
Sulphur Springs Ranger Station at 406-547-3361. Historical information excerpted from Home on the Range,
Montana’s Eastside Ranger Stations, author Vicky MacLean
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Hathaway, Montana was a station stop on the Northern Pacific Railroad and named for Major Hathaway,
a U.S. army officer. The town would grow up around the depot
which served as the center for social life in the surrounding
community. The post office opened in the early 1880s under the
name of Putnam but that was changed to Hathaway in 1887. The
post office closed in the 1995. Hathaway is located at Exit 117 on
Interstate 94, roughly 20 miles west-southwest of Miles City.
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P a g e 8
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
A CHRISTMAS GHOST
There is a beautiful house on Helena’s lower West Side that has been home to a number of tenants in
the past twenty-five years. Some of those who have been associated with the
house report odd experiences that I have detailed in Haunted Helena: Montana’s
Queen City Ghosts. For the Scott family, the house was a magical place
that holds special memories of family and one unique Christmas dinner. The
house was built in 1877, and its longtime owner was Christmas Gift Evans,
whose pioneer hardware firm of Sanford and Evans was a well-known, reputable
Helena business. Chris Evans was born in Deerfield, New York, on Christmas
Day in 1840. His parents felt so blessed at his birth that they named him
Christmas Gift.
The Christmas Gift Evans House, listed in the National Register of Historic
Places, is a rare example of the French Second Empire style. Its Mansard roof
has elegant wrought iron cresting and inside, the handsome dark woodwork
evokes another time. Original built-in furniture includes a dining room breakfront
with exquisite beveled glass. The house has seen its share of tragedy
including the death of Evans. Suffering from circulatory problems in 1915, Evans
died in the house after the surgical amputation of his leg.
Christmas Gift Evans, born on
Christmas Day, 1840, still likes to
celebrate his birthday.
Montana Historical Society
Photograph Archives
Garth Scott was a single parent with two children when the family moved into the house in 2004. During
the year they lived there, the Scotts thoroughly enjoyed the historic home and created some wonderful
family memories. But it was Christmas that year that was especially memorable. Garth’s mother cooked
a huge family dinner for some thirty family members who gathered around the dining room table. They
took many photographs to capture Christmas memories. An extra guest appears in many of the photos,
reflected in the beveled glass of the breakfront. The image of a man with a distinctive goatee does not
match any of the guests seated at the table.
The family later discovered a portrait of Evans in a drawer of the breakfront. The identity of the image is
certain. Christmas Gift Evans, perhaps in celebration of his birthday, apparently shared the family’s
Christmas dinner. –Ellen Baumler
Ellen Baumler is an award-winning author and Montana historian. A master at linking history with modern-day supernatural events, Ellen's
true stories have delighted audiences across the state. She lives in Helena in a century-old house with her husband, Mark, and its resident spirits.
To view and purchase Ellen’s books, visit: http://ellenbaumler.blogspot.com/p/my-books.html
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