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Ghost Towns and History of
Montana Newsletter
From The Glasgow Courier, Mar. 26, 1915
,
BELONGING: A TRUE FAMILY GHOST STORY
Accessed via: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/
Luckily the ghost that lived in my childhood
home was a relative. Otherwise, I
might have grown up afraid of things
that go shuffle and stroke in the night. I
remember as a little girl, any time there
was a bump upstairs or a creak in the
other room, someone in the family
would reassure me that it was just Aunt
Jesse. I knew her as the explanation for
any time my door opened of its own volition
or every time I was awakened by a
late night loving touch with nothing present
to account for it except for the seat
mark on my bed next to me. I knew her as the pen and ink portrait that
watched over us from the drawing room wall of our old family house, the
brick house. And I knew her as my great great aunt, a strong, willful woman,
who loved the Donovan Ranch more than anyone else in the world, at least
that is what she used to tell my grandfather when he was a little boy. Grandfather
used that anecdote to explain how he could be certain that our ghost
was in fact Jesse. According to him, she had chosen to stay behind until
someone came to the ranch and loved it as much as she did. Only then
would she finally rest.
We aren’t completely certain how Jesse McNiven and her older sister Margaret
made their way from Scotland, where they were born, all the way to a
cattle ranch in Horse Prairie in Southwestern Montana. We know they emigrated
from Scotland to Canada. We know they became Canadian citizens,
but we don’t know how they came to Butte, Montana where they met and
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נg@L* )go9׉H .https://co.silverbow.mt.us/481/History-CultureGׁׁrנg@L* ̌9׉H 'http://www.lewis-clark.org/article/1781Gׁׁrנg@L* :`9׉H Hhttps://centerofthewest.org/explore/western-art/research/edgar-s-paxson/Gׁׁrנg@L* F̬9׉H "https://www.nps.gov/libi/index.htmGׁׁr׉EP a g e 2
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
married best friends John Donovan (Jesse’s husband) and Ashley Morse (Margaret’s husband). I like to imagine
these two sisters flipping a coin to determine which train they would hop as they embarked on their
journey into the then still pretty wild west, just to see what was out there. And since oral testimony is unavailable,
I figure they chose the bustling mining city of Butte to meet men worthy of their willfulness and
independence. In terms of a timeline, we know that Grandmother Morse cued my dad that she was born
around the same time as President Lincoln’s assassination and that the two couples purchased the ranch at
a public auction in 1910.
To say they were wholly conventional couples would be an understatement. John and Ashley were both
professionals in the thriving mining town of Butte, but they were probably better known naturalists, who
published a variety of guidebooks for surviving in nature and living off the land. They traveled together
with local American Indian guides, who led them on months long expeditions into the far northern territories
of North America where they primarily hunted big game. I like to imagine these American Indian
guides as brothers; really as invaluable teachers of all the tricks of the survivalist trade, but historical
knowledge demands I acknowledge a much different possibility. My now trained eye is quite skeptical of
the old photographs I’ve seen of these men on my family tree posing together with the American Indian
guides to commemorate and to mark their various successful expeditions. I will never know for certain if
the guides were also counted among the bounty. The fantasy goes down much sweeter.
I do know for certain that our house, built in 1898, served for a time as a stage coach stop servicing weary
travelers coming into the state from Idaho. The Red
Rock Stage Coach, and others of its kind, followed
and slowly built upon generations old American
Indian migration and hunting trails as it transported
prospectors, traders and other visitors to
Dillon over fifty miles away from the Donovan
Ranch stage stop. The ranch was where Margaret
and Jesse (and eventually also my Grandfather)
lived and thrived while their men were away. If
only the walls of the old brick house could
speak! What stories they could share of conversations,
dreams and life from those days!
Fig. 1 Red Rock Stage Coach Traveling Over Lemhi Pass
As it was, the walls of our house did have a few stories to tell. When I was a kid, I remember that the walls
were full of paintings by E.S. Paxson, a good friend to Aunt Jesse and Grandmother Morse. Since he
worked for a stage coach company (as a guard) prior to moving to Butte and then to Deer Lodge to pursue
his work as a visual chronicler, I’d like to believe they first met at the ranch. “Maybe he had even stayed
there in room 6,” added my dad. Paxson, a self-trained artist, tasked himself with studying historical sites
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
around the state and interviewing witnesses so that he could paint what
might someday be regarded as historical documents. Through his art, he
archived great battles, like the Battle of Little Big Horn, when Arapaho,
Cheyenne and Sioux warriors decimated General Custer and his men. Later
in his career, he painted the final days of life in what we now remember as
the wild west; scenes of trappers, cowboys and mostly white settlers as
well as of the American Indians of the region living in the mountains and
valleys of Montana as they had for centuries before we took it away from
them in the name of progress and the “Great Westward March.”
Most of those paintings now hang on museum walls since Grandfather sold
them so that he and grandmother could go on their own adventures. Their
first “world tour” also happened around the time that they moved out of
the brick house and we moved in; quite an undertaking. Everything was
taken out, renovated, freshened up, and our things were moved in. We happily lived there through my
high school and college years. But, as bad luck sometimes makes its presence known, we were eventually
forced to sell the ranch and leave the family house for good.
Mom was the last of our family to stay in the brick house. She wanted to be alone and to say goodbye. As
she reminds me, there were no people left on the ranch, the cattle had been sold, and the house was
empty with the exception of a mattress and a couple boxes of trash. Mom recalls that the house was really
noisy that last night. She confessed that she thought “Jesse was mad at” her, at us; which is a funny
thing for her to confess since she didn’t really believe in ghosts. The next morning, mom made her final
cup of coffee from the narrow, little kitchen at the front of the house, wiped away her tears and went to
load the trash into the truck when she noticed something quite unexpected. On top of the trash lay open
a dusty, old leather book originally intended as a ledger for tracking financial transactions. It was open to
a page with a poem that read that in tough times when people may slander you or you may feel like you
hadn’t done all that you could, remember that family will stand behind you.
There is an important part of Jesse’s talks with grandfather that I didn’t mention before. I didn’t want to
spoil the fun. The book mom found carefully placed on the trash and opened to just the poem she needed
on that most difficult morning was Jesse’s. It had first belonged to Jesse and Margaret’s mother, who
began filling it with poetry and cut outs of favorite recipes and other little tidbits. It was later passed on
to Jesse, who continued to chronicle her inner life and love of the ranch. Mom took the book that she
had never seen before and presented it to dad, who also had never laid eyes on it before that day. He
called grandfather, who traveled post-haste to the house, because he didn’t believe mom’s story could
possibly be true.
Fig. 2 Biography of the Life and
Work of E.S. Paxon By His Grandson
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AP a g e 4
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
You see, he had loved his aunt dearly, and he had regularly asked Jesse if he could have her book after
she died. Because she always responded that she would leave it to the person, who loved the ranch as
much as she, he assumed it would eventually fall into his hands, but it never did. Following her death, he
looked for it, but he was never able to find it. He confessed that he had looked for it for years before finally
giving up and accepting that it must have been lost. After relaying the story of Jesse’s book and of
her promise, he looked up from the pages he had been quietly reviewing, and he said with tears in his
eyes, “Barbara, Jesse picked you. You loved the ranch as much as she did.”
It makes sense after all. Mom and Jesse were both immigrants to this country, both independent, strong
women, who found their home and themselves in Montana. Mom, whose story is linked below (to be
linked below), traveled from Germany to America with dad a year or so after they were married. As they
have told me many times over the years, she had no idea what a ranch was or what to expect from life
there, but as soon as she and dad drove over Bannack pass on what used to be part of the old Red Rock
Stage Coach road and she took her first look at the
ranch, she knew she belonged. She belonged to the
land and knew at once that she belonged in a life of
agriculture.
Mom now thinks of Jesse every time she wears her
diamond dinner ring, because Jesse used to wear it
every day, even when she went fishing. And as for
Jesse’s ghost, that was also her last night in the brick
house. Her ghost has moved on, but her pen and ink portrait will always be with us, with family. –Susan
Margret Morse
Note: I’ll be posting more historical family vignettes at a new site (in case you are interested):
morsestories.wordpress.com
Thank you so much to Dr. Morse for sharing this wonderful story with us! If you’d like to check out some
great videos of Susan’s grandfather as a teenager on the ranch she also included a link for those. They are
a rare treat showcasing cool artifacts of working with draft horses in the early 20th century: https://
morsestories.wordpress.com/portfolio/vignettes/
Fig. 3 Mom’s first view of the Donovan Ranch
Would you like to receive our digital quarterly magazine for free? Just send an email with MAGAZINE
in the subject to ghosttownsofmontana@gmail.com
“Genius is the gold in the mine, talent is the miner
who works and brings it out.”-Marguerite Gardiner
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
HISTORY OF PARK COUNTY-continued
From The Livingston Enterprise, January 1, 1900:
Of the many societies that enter into the development
of a city, none are more deserving of prominent
mention than is that of the Fire Department. These
men, who voluntarily risk their lives for the security
of the city, and receive only a paltry sum as a recompense,
should live forever in the annals of its people
as their greatest benefactors.
The Volunteer Fire company of Livingston was organized
October 13, 1897, consisting of eighteen members,
who were only active in the event of fire.
The first officers elected were: President, Lee Eisenberg ; Vice President, Harry McCue ; Secretary, T. M.
Swindlehurst ; Treasurer, C. S. Hefferlin; Trustees, C. S. Hefferlin, Frank Bender and D. N Ely. Dr. W. H.
Campbell was the company’s physician.
Shortly after the organization of the company a set of constitutions and by-laws were framed by a committee
composed of five members, i. e., D. N. Ely, Frank Bender, G. W. Chamberlin, Harry McCue and J. H.
Wolcott.
The first annual fire ball was held at the opera house January 25, 1898, terminating as one of the grandest
social and financial successes of any society ever held in Livingston.
By the resignation of President Eisenberg, Harry McCue, vice president, was unanimously elected to fill the
vacancy December, 1898, while M. J. Walsh was duly elected to fill the chair so honorably vacated by H.
McCue.
Today the Livingston Fire company consists of twenty-eight active members, one hose company of twentytwo
men and one hook and ladder company of six men.
The amount of fire apparatus on hand is as follows: One team, one hose wagon, one set double harness,
two hose carts, one complete hook and ladder truck and 2,200 feet of two and one-half inch cotton hose.
From May 3, 1897, until September 1, 1899, the volunteer company was in active service at thirty-six fires,
twenty-one of which occurred during the last year.
Ever since the existence of the fire department of Livingston Pete Nelson has been the acting chief. He has
been the life and energy in the complete furnishing of the rooms throughout, while, besides, it was through
his efforts that the foundation for a carefully selected library has been laid. It is plainly evident to all that
Looking Down Main Street, Livingston, Montana
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7P a g e 6
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
the future of the department can be only judged by the past, and under Chief Nelson it will very soon be
second to none in the state.
Driver McGinnis has sole charge of the firemen’s quarters. He has been criticized as possessing remarkable
activity in answering fire calls, and he is numbered with the best known horsemen in the district. His warm
hand of welcome is always ready to greet the many visitors at the fire
hall.
City Hall
In entering the fire department by the flight of stairs leading from the
vestibule, turning to the left, the visitor finds himself in the firemen’s
dancing hall.
The highly polished floor and ample room at once bespeak of the
pleasure afforded to the public by an evening here. Oak chairs and an
ebony Grand-square piano are the necessary furniture that complete
the equipment throughout.
Leading from the entrance hall at the end is the robe room, -which
has all the modern conveniences for the uses intended.
At the right of the hall and in the front part of the building is the library
and card room. Fine writing and card tables and leather upholstered chairs are comfortably arranged
about the room, while the latest papers and magazines are found in sufficient numbers for the entertainment
of its occupants. The floor is covered with a heavy tapestry brussels carpet and the walls are adorned
with oil paintings, among the best in the state. Artists visiting the city should not fail to leave without criticizing
them.
Leading to the rear from the library is the billiard room. It is large and furnished for the exclusive use of billiard
players. On the floor is a soft brussels carpet, and from the walls hang oil paintings of great value.
Thus the city of Livingston has just cause in entertaining pride by the completeness of her fire department
in answering its present requirements, while its fireman’s club is ever ready in answering their call to the
entertainment of visitors. Read More in Next Month’s Issue!
The Wild History of Virginia City, Montana
Virginia City, Montana, is said to be a “living ghost town,” frozen in time showing the glory that was
the Old West Gold Rush era. Virginia City remains to be the pride of Montana, and it is easy to see
why.
Virginia City lies along Alder Gulch, the location of the richest placer gold strike in the Rocky Mountains.
It is said that the total value of the gold struck from the Gulch valued into over $100 million
throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. An estimated $30 million worth of gold was removed in the
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
early 1860s alone.
Discovery of Gold at Alder Gulch
Virginia City was discovered in May 1863
by a group of gold prospectors in search of
the Yellowstone River. While on their journey,
they came across members of the
Crow tribe and were forced to return to
Bannack, Montana.
Photo Courtesy of Matt Grover
Virginia City, Montana in 2015.
On May 26, 1863, members of the group, Bill Fairweather and Henry Edgar discovered gold near
Alder Creek. Fairweather and Edgar wanted to keep this discovery a secret but quickly failed as
news of this mining discovery spread.
Mining sites quickly popped up as news of this gold discovery reached others across the country.
A mining district was set up in order to create rules about individual gold claims. On June 16,
1863, the site was named “Verina,” and a township was formed. The name Verina was given to
the town to honor Varina Howell Davis, the first and only First Lady of the Confederate States of
America.
While interestingly enough, the town was in Union territory, the area was actually founded by
Confederate-loyal men. They attempt to register the name as Verina but were rejected by Connecticut
judge, G.G. Bissell. The town’s name
was then changed to Virginia City.
Hopeful Miners head to Western Montana
Miners came from the California gold rush by
way of the Columbia River and overland on Mullan
Road. Other settlers traveled the Bozeman
Trail, parts of which are named to the National
Register of Historic Places.
Photo Courtesy of Matt Grover
The original Virginia City Opera House in 2015.
gold flocked to the area.
The problem with most mining towns in that day was the lack of law and order in the area. This
remote area of the Idaho Territory had absolutely no law enforcement justice system, with the exception
of miners’ courts. This was a problem due to the wealth of so many in the area.
Murders and robberies occurred along the trails and roads along the region, and these “road
agents,” as they were termed, were responsible for up to 100 deaths in the region between 1863
and 1864. The crooked sheriff of the town was Henry Plummer who would later become known
Within only weeks, the town boomed in growth.
Thousands of prospectors seeking fortune in
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
as the leader of the infamous Plummer Gang that was responsible for the bloodshed that occurred
around Virginia City and Bannack during the early days.
This high crime led to the formation of the Vigilance committee of the Alder Gulch and Montana
Vigilantes who sought out and hung over 15 of these road agents between December 1863 and
January 1864, including Plummer himself.
Also Read: Copper Mines of Butte, Montana: The Richest Hill on Earth
Virginia City: The Pride of Western Montana
The Montana Territory was organized out of the existing part of the Idaho Territory in 1864,
through an Act of Congress and was later signed into law on May 26, 1864, by President Abraham
Lincoln. Virginia City was the capital of the territory from February 7, 1865 to April 19, 1875,
when the capital was moved to Helena, Montana.
Virginia City quickly became a social center as it filled up with permanent structures and transportation
hubs. It became the location of Montana’s first public school, newspaper, and telegraph.
Thomas Dimsdale was Montana’s first newspaper’s editor, the Montana Post, which was published
on August 27, 1864. The first public school opened in March 1866.
Shortly after the big boom, Virginia City started to experience a gradual decline. Gold was discovered
in the Last Chance Gulch, which is now present day Helena, and more fickle miners moved
to find fortune in this new location. A population of over 10,000 eventually trickled down to only a
few hundred. It was at that time that the capital of Montana changed to Helena from Virginia City
and the town began to devolve into the ghost town it is today.
The Boom Ends, but some Mining Continues on…
Lode mining did continue in
the area for years but nowhere
as successfully as prior mining.
Between 1898 and
1922, floating dredges
destroyed several of the
mining camps along Alder
Gulch, leaving mounds of tailings
and dredge ponds behind.
Nearby
town, Nevada City,
was actually totally destroyed
by dredging, and Virginia City
somehow managed to survive
because it had not been established
upon gold-bearing
Photo Courtesy of Matt Grover
Nevada City was located just a few miles downstream of Virginia City. The townsite
was destroyed by large dredging operations in the early 1900s, but many of the structures
were moved to Virginia City.
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
gravel. During this period of dredge mining, however, the area did produce $7 million in gold.
However, like so many mining towns, operations began to decline shortly at the turn of the century.
As the price of gold rose significantly in the 1930s, dredge mining revived briefly. However,
once World War II hit, mining ceased all together.
Charles and Sue Bovey began buying the town in the 1940s and putting in the maintenance
needed to repair to the city’s failing structures. It was through their efforts that the ghost town of
Virginia City became restored for tourism in the 1950s and now stands as a tourist town, bringing
back by the Old West to visitors from all over. –Courtesy of our friend Matt Grover at RareGoldNuggets.Com
Matt
Grover shares his vast knowledge of ghost towns, metal detecting, gold prospecting, rockhounding, maps, treasures and much more at
RareGoldNuggets.Com Be sure to check out his website!
The New Chicago School
This school was built in 1874 by John Fetherman,
costing $700. The furniture cost $100. Teachers were
hired by the school board as much for their marriageability
as their teaching ability, however they did hire
married women. The teachers all stayed with the local
families in the valley. The school year didn't start until
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
the crops were in during the fall, and when the
weather got too cold they closed the school until
spring. At one time New Chicago had a population
of 1300, but when the railroad came through
buildings started moving to Drummond. In 1989
this school belonged to the Parke family. They
gave it to the Historical Society. With lots of volunteer
help, it was moved, restored, and opened in
May of 1995.
In 1886, a petition started circulating and was signed by many
residents of Bannack and surrounding towns asking for an increase
of mail service. The once tri-weekly service was upgraded
to six times a week. The post office for Bannack was
once located in the Turner House pictured. Bannack's post
office closed its doors for good in 1938.
Photo by Jolene Ewert-Hintz
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Boxcar Adventure
Emma Gardner was a homesteading wife who
came with her husband and children to the brand
-new town of Ryegate in what would later become
Golden Valley County. Like many families
during the homestead boom, the Gardners
came by boxcar. It was a seven day trip from
their home in Minnesota, and the boxcar was
loaded with all their earthly possessions including
chickens and cows, furniture, children, and
the family dog. Traveling in a boxcar in warm
weather, especially with livestock, could be very
uncomfortable. The boxcars were unbearably
hot and stuffy, and so most families kept their
big doors at least partially open so the fresh air
could circulate. At one point, the train slowed down to travel up a steep grade. The dog decided to seize the
moment and jump out of the car. Not only did he jump out, he took off running like mad across a field. The
children were screaming, thinking that they would never see their pet again. Mr. Gardner did the noble thing
and jumped out after him. Emma and the children lost sight of them both. The children began to think they
would not only lose the dog, but maybe their dad, too. However, the dog was finally captured, and Mr.
Gardner ran with him in his arms back to the train. But the train was starting down the other side of the
grade, and it began to pick up speed. Mr. Gardner made it back to the train, but his own boxcar was way up
ahead. As the train rumbled past, he had no choice but to toss the dog into someone else’s open boxcar. He
hopped on the speeding train and, according to the family, hopped from car to car until he got back to his
very anxious family and told them the dog was just down the way. The next time the train stopped, the
Gardners collected their pet and all ended well.—Ellen Baumler
A locomotive pulls boxcars across green horn trestle on Mullen Pass
west of Helena. Photo by F. J. Haynes.
Montana Historical Society Photograph Archives, H-3202
Ellen Baumler was an award-winning author and Montana historian. A master at linking history with modern-day supernatural events, Ellen's
true stories have delighted audiences across the state. The legacy she left behind will be felt for generations to come and we are in debt to her for
sharing her extensive knowledge of Montana history in such an entertaining manner. To view and purchase Ellen’s books, visit: http://
ellenbaumler.blogspot.com/p/my-books.html
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