׉?4ׁB!בCט  (u׉׉	 7cassandra://5mn-3DgCdyqgPHhlacQuVNtg5LdcvQBjFPNv8lTIrbc `׉	 7cassandra://rK2fOVyOiwkyS1-Ub0AFPTu1AhchSxq8d9YGhgOCUqw͂1`s׉	 7cassandra://YkofqZcXoeh-tGYgvqCOlwI1JgEXMnppo6XC9EWl03k'` ׉	 7cassandra://9sxsCeGQosAlrpyqSb_YMntIDHhPYT2095x5CfskPFs (͠]bF&5oט   (u׈   frJ  נbF&5o  +9׉H Chttps://northwestrving.com/montana-s-ghost-town-loop-bannack-farlinGׁׁrנbF&5o ̅	9ׁHhttps://montananewspapers.orgׁׁЈנbF&5o G̽9ׁHhttps://northwestrving.comׁׁЈ׈EbF&5n׉EAUGUST 2022
Ghost Towns and History of
Montana Newsletter
From the Madisonian, Aug. 28, 1880
Montana’s Ghost Town Loop– Glendale, Hecla, Lion City and
Trapper City
Welcome to part three of Montana’s Ghost Town Loop! This 70-mile loop
tour in southwest
Montana passes
through scenic territory
with plenty of
camping options
while visiting ghost
towns and mining
camps that helped
establish the state.
You will find it easy
to social distance yourself from others and world events as you enjoy this
loop. If you missed the last entry you can read it here. This time, we will
head north on I-15 from our last stop at Farlin turning off at the small settlement
of Melrose, Montana then heading west up Trapper Creek exploring
the ghosts of Glendale, Hecla, Lion City and what is left of Trapper City.
Glendale will be the first
stop as you head up Trapper
Creek. In 1875, a 40-ton
smelter was built on Trapper
Creek about five miles northeast
(downstream) from the
mines in and around Hecla,
Lion City and Trapper City.
The settlement of mill workCourtesy
of https://northwestrving.com
Remaining building in Glendale
Accessed via: https://montananewspapers.org
ers that grew up around it was named Glendale with a post office being
opened the same year. Numerous smelter employees and their families
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Courtesy of https://northwestrving.com
soon made their home in Glendale, which was much
tamer and civilized than the (mostly male) mining
camps upstream. The population averaged around
2,000 souls for the nearly thirty years the smelter operated.
Today you can view ruins of the smelter and several
other remaining buildings.
Continue up Trapper Creek to encounter the next three
ghosts.
The first mining camp to be established in the area was
Trapper City, which established a post office in 1873. Quickly, the camp boasted a hotel, several saloons,
a brothel, general store, butcher shop, livery
stable and numerous cabins lined up and down
Trapper Creek. The settlement reached a population
of nearly 200, but was short lived, as mining
operations began to move up onto nearby Lion
Mountain.
Also growing was the new camp of Lion City at the
base of Lion Mountain and by 1878 almost everyone
had abandoned Trapper City in favor of Lion
City. Trapper City’s businesses followed the residents
with Lion City soon boasting three saloons,
Remains of a mill in Trapper City
Courtesy of https://northwestrving.com
Old stamp mill in Lion City
two brothels, two hotels, several retail businesses,
a school, mining buildings and numerous
cabins. At its peak, Lion City had a
population of five to six hundred people consisting
mostly of miners and merchants.
In 1881, the Hecla Mining Company reorganized
their mining efforts in the area
founding the town of Hecla a short distance
above Lion City. The primary reason for the
new town was to remove the miners from the saloons and brothels available in Lion City along with
providing easier access to the mines. The town grew to an estimated 1,500 to 1,800 individuals and included
boarding houses for the miners, a water works, fire protection, a church, a school for 200 students,
company offices and other businesses typical of a small mining town.
Many buildings remain in Lion City
Courtesy of https://northwestrving.com
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Unfortunately, the mining district was hard hit when the Sherman
Silver Purchase Act was repealed in 1893. Though operations continued
on a smaller scale over the years, the ore was dramatically
played out by the turn of the century. The company’s major producing
mine, the Cleopatra, shut down in 1895. All told, nearly $20 million
was mined from the area mines over the years.
When you go:
Travel west from Melrose on Trapper Creek Road to the remains of Glendale which you will encounter at
N45° 38.530 W112° 46.943 At the fork in the road in Glendale stay left along Trapper Creek on Trapper
Creek Road for about 3.25 miles to the end of the maintained forest service road at N 45° 38.993 W112°
50.663 There are several nice boondocking campsites along the creek at this point if you want to drive
your RV this far. From this point to the mining camps (5-6 miles) the road is unmaintained with four wheel
drive or ATV travel recommended. Note: Glendale is located on private property and you are requested
to please view the remains of Glendale from the public road. The three mining camps farther upstream
are on public property which you can freely explore while keeping safety in mind.
You will find "downtown" Lion City at: N45°36.215 W112°55.473, the scant remains of Trapper City at:
N45°35.963 W112°54.966 and Hecla at: N45°36.205 W112°55.798
Camping:
Those looking for full hookups or a place to dump and take on water before heading to a dry camp site
will want to visit the Sportsman Motel and RV Park located at the north end of Melrose on Hwy 91.
Those wanting a less formal campground with easy access and minimal amenities will want to spend their
nights at Salmon Fly Fishing Access Site on Trapper Creek Road. Not only does it make a great base camp,
as all the sites you will be exploring are up Trapper Creek Road, but it is located on the beautiful Big Hole
River offering world class fishing opportunities. Fees are $18/night or $12/night with a Montana fishing
license.
Those that like to social distance themselves camping in the boonies with the wildlife will want to head
west about 3.5 miles up Trapper Creek Road (well graded gravel) taking a side road crossing onto BLM
land at N45° 38.169 W112° 44.904. The author camped at this location and was treated to an evening
showing of moose, deer and antelope coming out to feed in the farmers alfalfa field to the south of camp
each night. Alternately there are the locations noted above at the end of the maintained portion of Trapper
Creek Road.
In the next and final installment we will explore the Canyon Creek charcoal kilns that produced the much
needed charcoal to operate the Glendale smelter and the mines of Vipond Park high above the kilns then
Courtesy of https://northwestrving.com
completing up our loop at Quartz Hill. By Dave Helgeson for https://northwestrving.com/ Dave Helgeson is the
MHRV Show Director. He and his wife love to travel across the west in their RV. Dave writes about all things RVing but loves to share destinations
and boondocking advice.
Hecla ghosts
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uP a g e 4
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
African Americans in Montana
Several instances of the presence of African Americans in the territory before the major gold rushes
are known. William Clark’s slave, York, traveled with the Lewis
and Clark Expedition in 1805–1806, Henry “Negro Henry” Mills
worked for the American Fur Company in Fort Benton from the late
1850s, James Beckwourth was a well-known trapper of the 1820s
and 1830s whose life has been the subject of some interest, and
Isaiah Dorman served as a Sioux interpreter for the army who fell
with Custer at Little Bighorn. Blacks also often worked on the steamboats
that traveled widely up and down the Missouri River and
docked at Fort Benton.
With Emancipation in 1865, African Americans realized new opportunities
and joined the westward migrations. While small in numbers,
these pioneers contributed significantly to their communities. In
1870, the federal census counted 183 black people in Montana. The
number doubled in 1880, reached 1,490 in 1890, and peaked in
1910 at 1,834. Western blacks, many of whom carried the burden of
slavery, tended to settle in Montana’s larger urban areas and founded communities within a
sometimes hostile and discriminatory larger society. Against the backdrop of the Civil War, blacks
often found themselves caught in the bitter
struggle between Democrats and Republicans
who in theory supported African American
equality, but did so in varying degrees.
School segregation, black suffrage
(achieved in 1867), and anti-miscegenation
laws were controversial racial issues in
Montana’s early territorial period. Finding
consolation and community together, black
citizens often established their own churches,
benevolent societies, newspapers, and
social clubs.
James Beckwourth. Photo courtesy
Nevada Historical Society
The Montana Federation of Negro Women's Clubs meets in
Butte, August 3, 1921.
Montana Historical Society Photograph Archives, PAc 96-25.2
Despite the proportionately small numbers,
the 1870 census shows that blacks on the
Montana frontier engaged in diverse occupations and mostly concentrated in towns, especially
Fort Benton and Helena. More than half of males listed their occupation as laborers, domestics,
servants, or cooks, and twenty-seven percent represented themselves as barbers. A smaller percentage
proffered their occupation as ranch hands, cowboys, and miners, with one listed as a saloon
keeper. A decade later in 1880, blacks still clustered in the larger communities of Helena and
Butte where mining activities necessarily attracted service providers and laborers. Fort Benton’s
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P a g e 5
G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
African American population jumped from twenty in 1870 to fifty in 1880 because of the steamboat
travel that brought in population from diverse places
and because of the employment opportunities
steamboats offered.
Canyon Hotel waiters, Yellowstone National Park,
1901. Montana Historical Society Photograph
Archives, H-4873.
African Americans who came to Montana in the nineteenth
century include William Taylor, a teamster,
Samuel Lewis, a highly successful Bozeman barber,
John Gordon, a trained chef, and James Crump who
worked as a miner. African American women also
came to Montana with the first settlers and some assumed
non-traditional roles. For example, sisters
Parthenia Sneed and Minerva Coggswell ran a Virginia
City restaurant,
Sarah Bickford eventually
owned the Virginia City Water Company, Mary Gordon owned a
restaurant in White Sulphur Springs, and Mary Fields drove the
stage and held the mail route between Cascade and St. Peter’s Mission.
In
an interview in 1979 for the Helena Independent Record, Norman
Howard, grandson of James Crump, reflected on what it was like to
be black in Montana. He believed that discrimination was tougher
for blacks than for Indians. While Montana never posted signs for
“Whites Only” as in the South, the same rules applied and most
blacks found menial employment as waiters, janitors, and hotel
workers. Blacks were excluded from restaurants, bars, and barber
shops. By virtue of such exclusion, tightly knit black communities
formed; however, as the civil rights movement brought changes for
the better, these communities slowly disappeared. Maintaining a
strong black community also proved difficult as the lack of job opportunities in the state drew second
and third generation blacks elsewhere.
Mary Fields. Photo courtesy Ursuline
Convent Archives, Toledo, Ohio.
Although Montana has made small gains in the last decade, 2012 statistics show this ethnic group
makes up only 0.6% of the state’s population compared to 13.1% nationally. -Ellen Baumler
Ellen Baumler is an award-winning author and Montana historian. A master at linking history with modern-day supernatural events, Ellen's
true stories have delighted audiences across the state. She lives in Helena in a century-old house with her husband, Mark, and its resident spirits.
To view and purchase Ellen’s books, visit: http://ellenbaumler.blogspot.com/p/my-books.html
DO YOU KNOW SOMEONE WHO WOULD ENJOY THIS NEWSLETTER?? The digital version is FREE to all and we love
to share! Just have them send us an email at ghosttownsofmontana@gmail.com with NEWSLETTER in the subject
line to be added to the mailing list. Thank you!
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
Bound for Butte...On the Titanic
Nineteen-year-old Frederick William Pengelly, a miner from Devonshire
and Cornwall, was bound for Butte to begin work in the
mines there when he died in the Titanic disaster April 15, 1912. A
coal strike had reduced the number of steamers crossing the
North Atlantic; Frederick planned on taking a different ship but
ended up on the Titanic. At least four Pengellys lived in Centerville
in 1912, including likely brothers William, a barber, and
John, a miner, who lived at 175 East Center Street, but whether
they were related to Frederick, I do not know. He may have been coming to America to connect with his
widowed mother’s new husband, Mr. G. Reynolds, a miner.
William Gilbert was on holiday in late winter 1912, back home in Pollardras, near Carleen, Cornwall, from
his carpentry job in Butte. He delayed his return trip so that he could take the Titanic, but was among those
lost. He was 47.
William Gilbert and his father Thomas came to Butte about 1908; Thomas’s wife stayed in Cornwall and
managed a grocery store. William and his father were both carpenters; William specialized as a joiner, a
carpenter who tooled wood to fit pieces together without nails or screws. Both lived in a two-story brick
boarding house at 1021 East Park, between St. Lawrence and Parrot Streets—both streets long gone into
the southern edge of the Berkeley Pit. Their home stood just two blocks below the Pennsylvania Mine
where Thomas worked. In 1911 before his ill-fated holiday, William worked at the Mountain View Mine further
up the hill. William’s sister Mary came to Butte sometime around 1908-10, and according to family history
was the proprietor of the boarding house at 1021 East Park. She was famous for her Cornish pasties.
Frederick Pengelly and William Gilbert both boarded the Titanic at Southampton, and both held second
class tickets costing £10 10s—ten pounds, ten shillings, equating to something like $50 in dollars of the day.
The Gilberts’ carpentry skills probably earned them about $3.00 to $3.50 per day (carpenters’ pay was close
to that of miners), so the one-way fare amounted to more than two weeks’ pay. One might conclude that
William Gilbert was frugal with his money, to save a month’s wages for a round-trip excursion to Cornwall
and back to Butte. –Richard I. Gibson
Photo by F.G.O. Stuart (public domain; copyright expired).
Richard Gibson is a geologist. His career has ranged from analyzing kidney stones to 35 years in oil exploration. Butte's history, architecture, and
people captured his interest like he thought nothing could, and have expanded his life significantly. He’s still passionate about geology, but now
he’s passionate about Butte, too. His book "What Things Are Made Of" came out in March 2011; his writing blog focuses on it. The Butte History
blog contains interesting stories discovered in Butte, Montana, which are documented in "Lost Butte, Montana," from The History Press. Check
out more great stories from Richard by visiting his sites:
http://buttehistory.blogspot.com/ http://butte-anacondanhld.blogspot.com/ https://www.verdigrisproject.org/butte-americas-story
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
John and Nan Marty Homestead
Photo by Shawn Shawhan
This is Part 3, and the final part, of the John & Nan Marty
homestead story as being told by Joan, their daughter.
For my final group of photographs I will include some color
versions of those I previously posted in sepia tone. I
know some viewers prefer color over monochrome. Also
with my own photographs I’m including 3 images of John
& Nan that I copied from the book where I found their story.
Here is Joan’s continuing story about life on the Marty
homestead:
The rear of a bunkhouse and the main house.
“The terribly black dust storms of the 1930s and the annual
hailstorms made a lasting impression on me as a child. As
I look back, it seemed the weather completely controlled
our lives. If it rained the crops grew, but you couldn't travel
until the roads dried. If it hailed you lost your year's
work, and the winter drifts kept us isolated as long as six
weeks at a time.”
Photo by Shawn Shawhan
The 2-room bunkhouse and a doghouse.
Photo by Shawn Shawhan
“It was a hard,
harsh life, but I
know my parents,
especially
my father, felt a great sense of accomplishment in the ranch he had
built, one stick at a time. Coming from a fairly genteel life as a
parlor maid in London, I admire my mother for being the best
helpmate my dad could have found. What an adjustment that had
to be! I think she lived out some of her hopes for a ‘better life’
through me, as she urged me to practice the piano and get an education.”
Inside
the main house where the kitchen was located.
Photo by Shawn Shawhan
The Winnett Times of September 24, 1946, paid fine tribute to the
Martys:
Looking out the rear of the garage with the
workshop ahead on the right and the chicken
coop in the distance.
“One of the outstanding successful farmers of the North county is
John Marty residing about 18 miles north of Winnett. Mr. Marty
homesteaded his present location in 1913, coming here from Iowa.
His farm is located on the edge of the Missouri Breaks, which
gives him timber for building as well as shelter. With the exception
of his granary, all the buildings, including the comfortable
Marty home, are built of logs which were hewed on his own land
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G h o s t T o w n s a n d H i s t o r y o f
M o n t a n a N e w s l e t t e r
by Mr, Marty.”
“Due to the fact that Mr. Marty has a warm, wellventilated
hog house, he has been successful in raising
winter hogs which brought him fancy prices when placed
on an early market. He recommends the building of good
hog houses and raising winter hogs.”
“Two pastures fenced with woven wire and seeded with
winter rye supply the bulk of his hog feed, although corn
and skim milk is also fed. He markets about one hundred
hogs annually.”
"Mr. Marty is far from being dependent upon grain crops; along
with his hogs he also has a fine herd of Guernsey-Jersey dairy
cows and receives large cream checks monthly.”
“Advantage of his timber land for shelter and pasture is obtained
by ownership of a fine herd of white-face beef stock which add to
the financial returns of the ranch each year.”
“Mrs. Marty successfully
handles a large flock of
turkeys and chickens and
is very well satisfied with the checks she receives for eggs and
fowl.”
"A sixty-foot well supplies a large volume of pure water which is
elevated to a storage tank by a windmill. From the elevated tank,
the water is piped to the house, garden, and hog house. The hogs
are watered by turning a valve. The garden is irrigated likewise.
Mr. Marty has endeavored to copy the conveniences and systems
of the Iowa farmers where he was reared; his ranch is not only a
place to live and prosper, but it is an ideal home as well.”
"One of the things that first attracts a stranger as he approaches
the premises is the bird houses built and erected on posts by Mr.
Marty. One large and prettily painted one has sixteen rooms. In
the nesting season all the rooms are occupied. Mr. Marty is enthusiastic about the number of insects and
bugs the birds destroy each year. They keep his garden free from these pests.” - Courtesy of Shawn
Shawhan, Check out more of his beautiful photos at: https://abyssart.smugmug.com/?fbclid=IwAR0g5qKKbL9fGEjGeQOfnoe7G6IIxGIYn298nyBvXDiHu36eR34AqgCzA4
׉	 7cassandra://IRl5soYZ-Idhwn7sjaRRD9K2Zo2I0mlaxRgA0QS3xVk%f` bF&5n׈EbF&5nbF&5n(, (Ghost Towns & History of MT- August 2022 \Our newsletter is for those who love ghost towns and history of Montana, come check it out! bF!frJU